Craig LaBan Reviews Paramour in Wayne

Craig LaBan gets to reviewing Paramour in the Wayne Hotel and finds the Main Line restaurant mainly missing the mark.

The savory kitchen, though, just kept missing the mark when it needed finesse, from the gesture of its complimentary amuse-bouches (chewy raw fluke was sliced too thick, then dabbed with a coconut emulsion that tasted like piña colada; the next night a crouton topped with seared beef, supposedly corned and smoked, was virtually tasteless) to the luxury seafood entrees. Some beautiful scallops were oddly seared to such a deep and tacky-textured brown, their caramelized crusts literally stuck between my teeth. A thick brick of gorgeous sea bass had a nice pairing with creamed corn and beans, but was underseasoned and overcooked.

One Bell – Hit or Miss

Paramour [Philadelphia Inquirer]
Paramour [Official Site]

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  • Buckethead

    That’s too bad, I’ve had a couple good meals there but reading the review, Laban and I hardly ate any of the same things. One of them was the pork cheek dish, which he liked, so did I, though the first time I had it it was a lot better than the second time. The fried chicken oyster dish is good too.

  • Yuengling Premium

    One miserable bell. And after all the hype from this site! Sad.

  • badjack

    I actually had a decent meal there.. nothing to write home about, but nothing particularly off, either. It just seemed sort of generically “high-end.” I believe they have a newish chef these last couple months, also, which I didn’t see mentioned in the review.