Chile is the only country in the world to produce wine from the carménère grape. Originally a French grape from the Bordeaux region, it has long since lost out to Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon in plantings there. But in Chile, where cuttings from Europe were planted widely the 1800’s carménère thrived because it was mistaken for merlot. More than a century passed before the error was discovered, and this smaller berried grape with higher quality potential was hailed as the lost grape of Bordeaux.
Flavor-wise, carménère bears strong resemblance to its relations in the Bordeaux family, with the black plummy core of fruit so pleasing in merlot, cabernet sauvignon’s depth and chocolatey aromas, and the herbal edge of cabernet franc, yet it also has a Mediterranean character all its own. Carménère is a delight with savory foods, from cheese pizza to pot roast. One of the best values — just $10.99 — and most widely available in Pennsylvania, is premium Casillero del Diablo from Concha y Toro.
When the Headhouse Farmers’ Market set up under the shambles at 2nd and Lombard streets last summer, it was a major moment in Philadelphia food. Finally, we had something to compare to New York’s famous Union Square Greenmarket, a place where the food community — chefs, locavores, food writers, etc. — converged every Sunday morning to buy directly from our region’s growers.
Starting this weekend, the market is open for 2008. The earliest weeks of the season bring things like ramps and asparagus. It’s not the cornucopia of tomatoes and squash of July, but the market’s opening will mean the return of major sources of humanely raised meats, including Hendrick’s farms excellent bacon. Filling your shopping bags with local fare is a good feeling, but the fun of attending the market and taking part in this vibrant community is even better. Don’t miss your first chance of the year to support our local farmers and the Food Trust, the nonprofit that makes it happen.
It’s easy to forget when you stop at most ice cream shops, but the serving size of a frozen dessert should be a mere 1/2 cup. Ice cream cones typically sport three scoops — triple the recommended portion size. But at Franklin Fountain in Old City you can satisfy your warm-weather cravings with its new College Ice. The smaller treat combines a single scoop of the shop’s house made ice cream with one topping in a diminutive Chinese takeout container. I suggest the peanut butter with crushed pretzels for a splurge that won’t put you in a sugar coma.
My name is Joy, and I am former Starbucks barista. For one hot summer in the mid-’90s, I pulled espressos and blended Frappuccinos. Those sweet icy drinks were still new then and the rumor around the company was that the Frap had been invented by a store manager who was trying to keep his customers happy and cool. I imagine it was originally just strong coffee, half-and-half, sugar and ice, but when Starbucks’s R&D got its hands on the idea, the Frappuccino became a money-making monster based on high fructose corn syrup and other food science staples.
To me, it always tasted artificial and sticky. Thankfully, in Philadelphia, the Frappuccino is not your only option for sweet caffeinated coolness. Fantes, the kitchen emporium in the Italian Market, makes a coffee granita with just espresso, sugar and cream. It’s a sweet escape from a hot afternoon and fake ingredients.
Many people associate white rum with a cheap buzz. But one sip of Rhum Clément Première Canne, a $27.99 stunner from Martinique, demonstrates conclusively why experts consider rum one of the world’s superlative spirits. Exotic and complex, silky textured and rich, Première Canne is to Bacardi Light as Valrhona is to Hershey’s. Its nuanced layers of subtle fruit flavors slowly reveal an essence of earthy spice redolent of the tropics — all in a spirit so whisper-light as to feel ethereal on the palate.
Most rum is made from molasses, a byproduct of refining white sugar. Rhum Agricole is made from fresh-squeezed sugarcane juice and a process modeled on the finest French brandies. Première Canne makes a delightful change of pace for fans of premium vodka or silver tequila, whether chilled alone or in any white spirit cocktail recipe. Especially poignant is the classic daiquiri — shaken, not frozen.
In Center City, west of Broad is the place to be. South of Washington Avenue, though, that whole cultural compass changes dramatically. There, the blocks just West of Broad Street have a reputation for being run down and dangerous – which hasn’t stopped urban pioneers from scooping up real estate in Point Breeze and Newbold. For some, part of the lure has been the success of a handful restaurants and bars. Think of it as eating as civic duty.
The South Philadelphia Tap Room (which recently expanded, installed a new chef, and introduced a new menu) has been the site of the Newbold Neighborhood Association’s meetings since the group’s inception. Hardena, a hallowed hole-in-wall serving Indonesian fare, has been drawing foodies to the area for several years. And a more recent arrival, Café Con Chocolate, serves pseudo-Mexican grub like nachos and veggie tacos in a brightly lit, freshly painted coffee shop setting.
So it’s not exactly sit on the porch with a cold glass of lemonade weather, yet, but with this Spring Spritzer from the winemakers at Chaddsford Winery those lazy summer days are literally so close you can taste them.
Spring Spritzer
1 750 ml. bottle Chaddsford Spring Wine (shown)
1 12 oz. can frozen lemonade concentrate
1/2 cup granulated sugar
3 cups club soda
Sliced strawberries and limes
In a punch bowl, mix wine, lemonade and sugar. Slowly stir in club soda. Garnish with limes and strawberries. Chill. Serves 8-10.
Philly has no shortage of gourmet chocolates. John & Kira and Eclat established Philadelphia’s place on the chocolate map – and now there’s a new candy maker in town who is taking artisanal chocolates a step further.
Rachel Gordon, a home-baking enthusiast in Center City, started experimenting with chocolate recipes less than a year ago. Excited by her results and encouraged by her friends’ reactions to her creations, Gordon set up R+D Chocolates and recently began selling her wares to the public through the Fair Food Farmstand in Reading Terminal Market. Crowd pleasers like fleur de sel caramels and marcona almond turtles have become market staples, but I’m waiting for the bacon infused version. Gordon says bacon brings a dimension of smokiness to the chocolate but no unpleasant porky notes.
With temperatures now breaking the 70-degree mark, restaurants are setting up their sidewalk cafes for the season. Here are my three current favorite spots for springtime al fresco dining.
Southwark (shown)
The patio here is something of a secret. It is all but invisible from the street, and the space feels cozy, almost indoors, because of the pretty overhead trellis.
Avalon
Comfortable chairs and a landscape design that highlights local flowers and plants make this BYOB’s outside seating some of the most pleasant in the burbs.
Paradiso
The most elegant restaurant on East Passyunk Avenue, Paradiso opens almost completely to the street with enormous windows and ample sidewalk seating. Outdoor diners feel like part of the action.
The Chesapeake’s waters are finally warming up, which means it’s blue crab season. And Tinto’s chef/owner Jose Garces’ recipe for txangurro (that’s crab) salad is the perfect way to enjoy the handpicked jumbo lump meat. (Don’t worry, you’ve got time. The blue-crab season will last through the end of November.)
Txangurro Salad
1 1/2 pounds jumbo lump crab
1/4 cup chives, finely chopped
1 red bell pepper, finely chopped
3 shallots, finely chopped
1/4 cup flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
1 Tbsp. kosher salt
1/4 cup crème fraiche
1/2 cup mayonnaisse
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1 lemon, juiced and zested
8 baguette slices, toasted
1 avocado, sliced
In medium-sized bowl, combine all ingredients except baguette slices and avocado. Serve on a baguette slice with a slice of avocado. Serves 8.