When you open a restaurant, one rule of thumb — at least, according to Kitchen Nightmares — is to offer the community something it doesn’t already have — i.e., don’t open a pizza parlor where there are already 20 in a four-block radius. This year-old, laid-back BYO has closely followed that advice by bringing the quaint Delco main street legitimate farm-to-table cuisine, with an emphasis on healthfulness. And there’s not one fried item on the menu, which, after all this gastropubbing we’ve been doing, is a nice change. Try the Barnegat fluke with pistachio puree, the better-than-most roasted beet salad, and a creamless (but creamy!) porcini pasta.