A restaurant’s mojo is often tied up in its location, but this beloved, under-the-radar BYO has not only survived its move from Queen Village to red-hot East Passyunk Avenue, it’s gotten better (and acquired a liquor license). The sophisticated new gray-and-wood interior suits chef Kouma’s smart, French-influenced fare. Don’t miss the fragrant rosemary onion soup with kalamata olives and a hearty, fall-off-the-bone-tender coq au vin, or the lighter seared tuna with sushi rice and sautéed baby bok choy.
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