Perfect pillows of gnocchi doused with equally good braised short ribs, roasted dried mozzarella topped with ample amounts of table-shaved black truffle, and creamy seafood-spiked risotto aren’t within the purview of your average South Philly Italian joint, let alone the vast majority of the Italian spots that overpopulate our city. And the chatty brothers who run this 26-seat BYO replacement for the old Shank’s and Evelyn’s sandwich shop make for a charming team. But what must the South Philly neighbors think after dropping $180 (with tip) on dinner for two? Granted, that’s for three solid courses plus a shared dessert and espresso, but it’s still a hard sell.
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