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722 West Dekalb Pike
Blue Bell, PA 19422
Aside from a mural of a seaside Calabrian village above the bar, Toto Schiavone's Italian restaurant, set in a strip mall in Blue Bell, is conspicuously unadorned, as if to underscore that what really matters is the oven. More than three-quarters of chef Donna Ewanciw's menu passes through it, primarily in clay pots, for a homey, deeply satisfying style of cooking evident in dishes like a rustic soffrito of shiitakes and ceci beans. Ewanciw's cannoli — lemon-infused ricotta packed into delicate pistachio tuiles — are without equal.
Read the Radice review from the December 2010 issue.
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