Poor Judgment Dooms Square Peg

Trey Popp reviews Chef Matt Levin’s Square Peg and despite some great fried chicken, too much goes awry.

Levin has talent. I’ve tasted its fruits, elsewhere and (too rarely) here. But what ultimately ruins Square Peg is that it puts that talent—and its customers—at the mercy of something altogether more suspect: Levin’s judgment.

½ Star – Poor to Fair

Philadelphia Restaurant Review: No-brow Americana at Square Peg [Philadelphia magazine]
Square Peg [Official Site]

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  • alex

    A-fucking-men.

  • Daytime Drinker.

    Hopefully this puts an end to shock value cooking.
    The dining public is 100% responsible specifically the idiots who show up to Four-Loko tasting menus and swear hamburgers work with chocolate donuts.

  • Buckethead

    @Daytime Drinker: “The dining public is 100% responsible specifically the idiots who show up to Four-Loko tasting menus and swear hamburgers work with chocolate donuts.”

    Well if those are the idiots who are responsible I think we’re doing OK as a dining public, there weren’t enough of those people to keep Adsum in business.

  • Michael G

    He’s trying too hard to be ironic. Upscale comfort food or diner food doesn’t have to have a catch with each dish. Deep fried twinkees belong at carnivals for a reason.

  • dan marcantuno

    I’ve never had a bad meal or experiance there. Fried chicken is killer and General tso’s salad was dynomite. If you dont like it dont go

  • barryg

    I thought a half-star was a little harsh for a place turning out a couple “best of class” dishes but the “no-homo” comment make it worthy of demotion.

  • T-Mac

    Also stop claiming this dish as your own. Inspiration is fine theft however is just sad.
    “Restaurant Au Pied de Cochon is arguably Montreal’s most famous modern bistro, thanks largely to chef Martin Picard’s ingenious take on poutine, the city’s signature junk food. This incorporation of foie gras, from L’Album by Chef Martin Picard, takes the usual concoction of french fries, gravy, and cheese curds to another level.”

    – National Geographic

  • Anon

    Yikes !!!
    Harshest review ever but seems on point.
    I do disagree with this silly comment by the reviewer……

    “The carnitas in Levin’s Frito-­bag tacos contain aji amarillo, one of my favorite and most rarely encountered chili peppers, but a bloodhound could scarcely track it through the obliterating flavor of the chips”

    @Treypopp Thanks for the hyperbole but Aji Amarillo is not rarely encountered if you have eaten at Nobu-Buddakan-Chifa-Alma de Cuba-China Grill or Sushi Samba plus it is a mild chili.

  • no

    @dan marcantuno: I’m not likely to rely on the “experiance” of somebody who cannot capitalize, punctuate, or spell. So yeah, per your advice, I “wont go”

  • Andrew

    I would love it if the server used the term “no homo” to Craig LaBan.

  • finally

    Finally! Levin’s ineptitude and love of awful concoctions has been exposed and in shrewd detail. I’m often ambivalent to Trey Popp reviews, but this one was a bullseye. Levin would be better off in the test kitchens for the fools over at epic meal time.

  • Dan marcantuno

    @NO. Wont is a noun and it means ones habitual way of doing things. I would guess you were attempting to write the word won’t…. It’s official, @NO is a spineless douche bag who feels so inferior he has to play the roll of the grammar police to feel just a little bit better about him/her self. You can crawl back to your hole now I’m through with you. ?