Trey Popp at El Rey

Trey Popp files his first review for Philadelphia Magazine, his inaugural target, El Rey. Popp doesn’t find big mistakes but only a couple of items that are worth raving about.

The outstanding stuffed poblano pepper, a carryover from Xochitl, rides waves of flavor – a splash of creamy walnut sauce, a spray of almonds, then a dried-fruit-and-cinnamon-scented tide of beef, whose sweetness recedes as tart bursts of pomegranate punctuate the slow burn of the chili. Sucking his mole negro – an alchemy of anchos, mulatos and chilhuacles – off of slow-cooked lamb cubes is like plunging through a column of chili smoke into a cauldron of chocolate-dusted tobacco leaves. It’s as black as sin, as pungent as heartache, as mysterious as redemption.

Two Stars out of Four

El Rey [Philadelphia Magazine]
El Rey [Official Site]

Since another reviewer has taken a look at El Rey we have updated our El Rey: Annoted Menu.

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  • I need to have another meal at El Rey. I was pretty satisfied with my last trip, and that pepper looks so good.

  • barryg

    This thing was amazing at Xochitl, so glad it made it over to El Rey.

  • Yeah, I remember seeing this at Xochitl before the changes were made. Now I know what I’m getting when I hit El Rey!

  • Chef Dionicio still makes the definitive best queso fundido in my humble opinion… chorizo needs to supplant bacon as fatty totem food.