Trey Popp steps back into another time at Village Whiskey where he finds the burger is king and the drink mark-ups most unkind.
Even the $9 version [of the burger] is among the best in a town with a lot of good ones. Village sources beef from “sustainable farm-raised” cattle in Maine and grinds it themselves, allowing for a loosely packed half-pound patty that gushes with juiciness. Of course the $24 specimen is what’s gotten the most attention. The main upcharge derives from its crown of seared foie gras, but that’s one thing a burger outfitted with thick slabs of smoky bacon, maple-glazed cipollini onions and a mound of Rogue smoky blue cheese doesn’t really need. If I had it to do over again, I’d nix the organs and let that unholy trinity of sweetness and pork fat and mold work its own dark miracle. Even just the cheese itself â€” which is cold-smoked over hazelnut shells and tastes faintly of toffee â€” would make for a decadent lunch.