Four For Fountain

fountain 

Despite changes in the kitchen, Craig LaBan finds the the Fountain inside the Four Seasons is still worthy of 4-bells. In fact he finds the restaurant so good he goes out of his way to mention just about everyone by name.

No doubt dinner here is still a gold-plated indulgence. But compared with the astronomic fees people now eagerly pay for grilled slabs of beef, this is a fair price for a genuine expression of culinary art. And this kitchen’s amazing consistency is, more than anything, a tribute to the longevity of its talented kitchen stalwarts – night chef David Jansen; chef tournant William DiStefano; day chef Ralph Costobile; banquet chef Joe Drago; and pastry chef Eddy Hales – who have more than a century of Fountain experience among them.

Unlike some kitchens, though, that august experience has never translated into stale cooking. Quite the contrary: The Fountain remains one of the most vital, worldly and witty kitchens in town. “Steak and eggs,” for example, will never be the same for me after the Fountain’s rendition, a rosette of beef carpaccio topped with crispy rails of Pont Neuf potatoes and a comet-shaped orb of tempura-fried egg yolk, whose exquisitely delicate micro-crust released a brilliant yellow gush at the tap of a fork.

 Four Bells – Superior

Fountain Restaurant [Philadelphia Inquirer]
Fountain Restaurant [Four Seasons]

  • http://yuppieeatsphilly.blogspot.com Yuppie Eats Philly

    I was there in December for a very special anniversary celebration for my parents, and I must say that I completely agree with LaBan’s review. Not only is the food superior, but the entire atmosphere is quite unique among the Philly restaurant scene. It is well worth the money to experience this restaurant.