Despite changes in the kitchen, Craig LaBan finds the the Fountain inside the Four Seasons is still worthy of 4-bells. In fact he finds the restaurant so good he goes out of his way to mention just about everyone by name.
No doubt dinner here is still a gold-plated indulgence. But compared with the astronomic fees people now eagerly pay for grilled slabs of beef, this is a fair price for a genuine expression of culinary art. And this kitchen’s amazing consistency is, more than anything, a tribute to the longevity of its talented kitchen stalwarts – night chef David Jansen; chef tournant William DiStefano; day chef Ralph Costobile; banquet chef Joe Drago; and pastry chef Eddy Hales â€“ who have more than a century of Fountain experience among them.
Unlike some kitchens, though, that august experience has never translated into stale cooking. Quite the contrary: The Fountain remains one of the most vital, worldly and witty kitchens in town. “Steak and eggs,” for example, will never be the same for me after the Fountain’s rendition, a rosette of beef carpaccio topped with crispy rails of Pont Neuf potatoes and a comet-shaped orb of tempura-fried egg yolk, whose exquisitely delicate micro-crust released a brilliant yellow gush at the tap of a fork.
Â Four Bells – Superior