If there's an Old Faithful of Philly dining, it's Dmitri's, whose original Queen Village storefront is still turning-and-burning tables after 20 years in business — as is its younger Fitler Square sibling. A third branch opened in NoLibs in March, serving the same Mediterranean-ish fare. It's a good-enough BYOB if you're within walking distance, but not necessarily worth a special trip. Grilled octopus is nicely charred, but chewy; the shrimp pil pil, though tasty, is missing heat. Despite being grilled, the whole branzino doesn't have much flame-kissed flavor, but the hummus with fresh-from-the-gril pita is still a winner, as is the rice pudding.