Amuse

Le Meridien Hotel, 1421 Arch Street
Philadelphia, PA 19102

Phone: 215-422-8222

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Convenient to the Convention Center, this bistro in the new Le Meridien hotel reflects the hotel's French heritage — order the hanger steak rare and it arrives feverishly red, properly cool in the center, and practically still moo-ing — but execution doesn't always match its ambitions. Flabby fries disappointed; a goat cheese and onion tart was tasty, but the accompanying microgreens were wilted and browning. A deconstructed Nicoise salad made a dainty picture on the plate, but left us wishing for something with a bit more heft (and flavor) for its $17 price tag.