Taste: Eat This Now: Crudo at Positano Coast

The mandatory raw-fish appetizer travels under the name crudo at Positano Coast, the reconceived Lamberti’s Cucina in Old City. Such dishes are sold elsewhere as tartare and carpaccio, but the word for what is more or less Italian sushi shows a kitchen serious about mining the coastal Amalfi childhood of owner Aldo Lamberti, whose eight establishments have quietly made him one of this region’s top restaurant moguls. Positano Coast coats a plate with thinly sliced mahimahi, graces this with olive oil and sea salt, and tops it with a salad of vinegary radicchio and chunks of smoked mozzarella. Besides its trendy moniker, this crudo is in one more way distinct from its counterparts elsewhere: It actually tastes like fish.

Positano Coast, 212 Walnut Street; 215-238-0499.