What to Drink: Château de Tracy Pouilly-Fumé 2004

Pouilly-fumé is the “little black dress” of white wines. By itself, it may seem simplistic,

Pouilly-fumé is the “little black dress” of white wines. By itself, it may seem simplistic, even austere, but when you try it on and accessorize with food, it’s appropriate for any holiday occasion. Like its sister-style sancerre, pouilly-fumé wines are bone-dry sauvignon blancs from Northern France’s Loire Valley. Bracingly tart and refreshing, these wines can brighten any dish as surely as a squeeze of lemon. Château de Tracy is one of the classics — an aristocratic wine at a Chairman’s Selection price of $14.99 to tempt the masses. Take advantage of this over-half-off deal with a plate of smoked salmon or a goat cheese salad.