Restaurant M sparkles in a traditional setting near Jewelers’ Row
Most evenings, a black ironwork gate stands open in a welcoming gesture on 8th Street between Walnut and Locust, with a menu posted discreetly alongside. The brick footpath beyond the gate leads into a
Katz’s pretty plates and unexpected combinations offer plenty of incentive to come back and dine indoors. The urban-chic restaurant and cozy bar behind the 18th-_century facade are furnished with ivory table linens and oversize paintings, steering clear of Colonial clichés. Pinwheel-patterned flash-fried pancetta chips perch atop a green salad; a marvelous veal chop, carved to stand vertically, is paired with smooth walnut pesto, roasted red flame grapes, and a spiky maitake mushroom drizzled with house-made thyme oil. A remarkable appetizer that combines chilled lump crabmeat, pink ribbons of Serrano ham, mini-scoops of cantaloupe and honeydew melon, mâche leaves and fresh mint tastes even better accompanied by a bottle of Ratzenberger riesling. This month, look for game, braised meats and chestnuts on the menu.
Lengthy gaps between courses and the staff’s inclination to clear plates in a piecemeal fashion are fixes that still need to be made. We also had a long wait for the only copy of the wine list, a wide-ranging, well-priced selection. The $8 parking at the garage directly across the street is another good value.
Source URL: https://www.phillymag.com/news/1999/11/30/taste-a-gem-in-the-diamond-district/
Copyright ©2019 Philadelphia Magazine unless otherwise noted.