The reincarnation of Pizzeria Beddia is now open in Fishtown at 1313 North Lee Street. It opened quietly — which is impressive considering the hype behind it. It’s currently taking reservations, but Joe Beddia tells me they’re booked up all the way into next week.
We’ll get in there eventually. You’ll see pictures of the space and pictures of the food sometime next week. Just know that this Pizzeria Beddia is wholly different from the original on Girard Avenue. It’s a full restaurant with a bar (that focuses on natural wines and cocktails), not a take-out shop. It has a menu that includes things that aren’t pizza. There’s a giant cartoon cloud lighting fixture hanging in the middle of the restaurant. Bust most of all, he has other people making his pizza, which is the the thing to know about this place. It ain’t just him making his 40 pizzas a night. He’s relinquished some control, which was, ostensibly, what made his pizzas the greatest in the country to begin with. I assume it will hold up, but the stakes are higher when you go bigger.
But in the end, it’s just pizza, right?
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