The Tacos Are the Thing at Shifty’s Taco
Brian Freedman finds that Shifty’s Taco is a good reason to head west on Girard Avenue.
[T]he tacos here are Shifty’s raison d’être, and on that count, Chef Geoff Gabrick and his team (including Jeb Woody of Honey’s and Zack Shell of El Fuego) acquit themselves admirably. The Rub was a highlight, its tender strings of braised brisket singing a song of adobo and chipotles, the slow simmering heat building yet never cresting: Lovely. The Hem and Hawl, on the other hand, demonstrated the kitchen’s aptitude with fish. Well-cooked and tender tilapia done on the plancha was anchored by an attractive slaw that, though it could have been a touch brighter, nonetheless brought enough crunch and liveliness to each bite to win me over.
Excellent new tacos at Shifty’s on Girard [Philadelphia Weekly]
Shifty’s Taco [Foobooz]