Rick Nichols on Le Bec Fin’s Second Act

“But in its latest edition, Le Bec no longer had the field to itself. The entire dining scene in the city had moved on, and up, and in many cases surpassed the gold standard Le Bec had set in a less competitive market decades ago. It’s a shame that neither Georges Perrier or his successor could fully absorb just how profoundly the menu, the dining-room stylistics, and the eating habits of 21st century Philadelphia had changed. You have to know when to hold ’em and when to fold ’em. The architects of Le Bec’s second act were clueless on that front. And sadly, instead of going out on top — where it deservedly reigned for decades — it suffered that most ignominious of endings: It threw a party and nobody came. It had worn out its welcome. The emperor, once so resplendent, no longer had clothes.”Rick Nichols, requiem for Le Bec Fin