Answering a Higher Calling at Citron and Rose
David Magerman set out to open a kosher Subway. What he got instead was a whole lot better. Trey Popp reviews Citron and Rose.
I’d lean toward the more rib-sticking fare—notably a veal breast roulade and apple/celeriac kugel that rise like volcanic islands over a lake of lava-hued beet jus. That and a Frisco Kid cocktail (rye, fernet, ginger, lime) could inspire a search for Ashkenazi ancestors in your family tree, just to see if they ever knew how to cook like this.
Three Stars – Excellent