Critic Risks Life, Reviews His Mother’s Thanksgiving

“The stuffing, really, was the only dish that didn’t quite take flight. And though I was reminded over and again how my mother had broken her back over the homemade corn bread, how she had scrubbed each and every one of those mushrooms by hand lest the critic chomp into any grit, god forbid, those earthy-sweet little buttons, nicely sauteed with onions and garlic, dominated the flavor profile of the dish. – Brian Freedman on his mother’s Thanksgiving Dinner