Craig LaBan Sees Potential in Russet
Craig LaBan sees the potential in Andrew Wood’s Russet to be one of Philadelphia’s best restaurants. But before that happens some loose ends around the entrees will have to be taken care of. But the appetizers, well they’re already excellent.
Housemade lonza, chile-cured from the loin of Tamworth pigs Russet buys whole from Lancaster County, comes sliced into a translucent amber rosette draped with pickled ramps, blanched celery leaves, and a rustic green oil with mortar-crushed herbs. Stinging nettles, plucked for the restaurant by urban forager David Siller, are spun into silky strands of forest green tagliolini, glazed with the capery anchovy piquance of bagna cauda, and then set beneath a lightly broiled yolk that bursts into sauce at first touch.