Adam Erace Reviews Square Peg
Adam Erace ponders the question, “what happened to him?” in regards to Square Peg chef, Matt Levin.
Perhaps worse than the poor execution, these plates were dull, with none of the verve typically associated with Levin’s cooking. Say what you will about Tastykake sliders and Four Loko prix-fixes, at least they were something to talk about. Square Peg’s offerings, mostly, are something to yawn about.
Levin knows this. He’s the first to admit Square Peg’s concept (and eventual plans to expand nationwide) come at a price. “Obviously there are concessions,” he says. “[The food] had to be a little bit more down the middle of the road. Super poutine doesn’t work at a fucking strip mall in Atlanta. Mac ‘n’ cheese grilled cheese does.”