Steaks and Mistakes at Reserve in Old City
A single golden strand of hair mars Adam Erace’s steak at Old City’s Reserve. But it isn’t the only negative he encounters at the steakhouse.
Reserve deserves some credit for shaking the dust out of the timeworn steak-house formula, much the way Barclay Prime did. The beef sourcing shows more effort than other steak houses, and the prices, by comparison, are merely in the troposphere. Small-batch bourbons replace bigheaded Cabs as the house poison, and Reserve’s list is stocked with the usual suspects (Jim Beam, Bulleit) and rarities (16-year-old Black Maple Hill, High West Bourye) alik