Vivid Italian at Ulivo
Craig LaBan visits Ulivo, the Queen Village BYOB that Joseph Scarpone has opened after closing Sovalo in 2008.
But if ever there was a bright little dumpling to lead the way to the end of that path, the ethereal ricotta gnocchi he serves at Ulivo – glowing bright in a halo of truffle butter – are as powerful a beacon as any. They’re so delicate, these soft puffs of milky sweetness just dissolve like a reverie, melting away into a truffled hum that warms contentment to the core. My fork, seemingly magnetized, is already in motion back to the plate for another. Simple food done just right, no matter the setting, can heal a lot of history.
Two Bells – Very Good