Beer and Food Working Together at American Sardine Bar
Brian Freedman finds that the food at American Sardine Bar works just fine as an accompaniment to the bar’s beer program.
It’s with the simpler constructs that ASB is at its most charming. Brussels sprouts are straightforwardly conceived and wholly successful, robust half-globes with oyster sauce and tossed with sliced Thai chilies. The result is like a vegetal freebasing of umami, and just when you think it’ll all be too rich, the prickle of acid and heat from the chilies comes swooping in to clean up.