Zeppoli: 100 Decibels; 2 Bells
Craig LaBan enjoyed his dinner if not the din at Collingswood’s Zeppoli.
A baked orata with crispy potatoes gilded by slow-cooked artichokes and caper berries, and oil-cured, was the juiciest whole fish I’ve eaten this year. Goat stewed in milk to sublime tenderness is finished to a crisp in the oven with a crust of herbed lardo. Addictive little twists of Sicilian fusilli come tossed in a vivid green pesto “Trapanese” made from pistachios, almonds, and basil so fragrant it seduces your senses before you even take a bite. And then I took many.