Food of the Republic of Georgia? Absolutely

Craig LaBan heads to Lower Bucks County for flavors of the former Soviet Union. At Restaurant Absolute LaBan finds owner and chef Teimurazi Kikvidze turning out soulful Georgian fare.

For a taste of true Georgian-style flavors, the kebabs are a must. Kikvidze grills them over real charcoal, and the flavors resonate.

Rack of lamb brings three plump chops that are fantastically tender and savory despite only a brief marinade in cumin and paprika. The pork shish kebab is delicious, too, ringing with garlic, cumin, and cilantro, as are the moist chicken kebabs. The lulya kebab, a minced blend of chicken and lamb, gets shaped around the skewer’s flat blade like a heat-charred torpedo. Dip any of these meats in satsibili, a zesty homemade Georgian ketchup pepped up with cilantro, garlic, spicy peppers, and even Georgian spring water, and you may not go back to Heinz. Kikvidze’s fresh pan-fried Yukon potatoes and onions topped with crushed garlic and dill give French fries Georgian competition, too.

Two Bells – Very Good

Restaurant Absolute [Philadelphia Inquirer]

Photo by Michael Bryant |