One Bell for Farmers’ Cabinet
Craig LaBan reviews The Farmers’ Cabinet and although he thoroughly enjoys the liquid part of the menu, the food leaves him puzzled and asking a ton of questions.
It’s as if the ghosts of A.C.’s Prohibition boss “Nucky” Johnson and legendary beer writer Michael Jackson have been summoned to the bar for a drink.If they had to eat, though, I think even they might protest – especially when they got the steep bill for game entrées that tasted like cooking-school experiments run amok in fruity jams and lambic beer glazes. Scrawny squab slathered in blackberry jam for $28? Or deep-fried quail, whose delicate crust was soggy with onion jam and drizzles of wild-cherry Kriek molasses? The maraschino cherry liqueur that lacquered the chewy $26 rabbit like a Peking duck was only half the problem. The sides of white chocolate-carrot puree and polenta creamed with Greek yogurt and cherries gave it an identity crisis – dinner? breakfast? dessert? – that was all-around disconcerting.
One Bell – Hit or Miss