Two Bells for Monsu

Craig LaBan is excited for the Sicilian flavors coming out of Peter McAndrew’s kitchen at Monsu, from the standard of mussels and branzino to island’s signature arancini rice cakes.

Perhaps my favorite dish, though, was the goat “cooked in the style of the horse.” It’s an homage to one of Sicily’s favorite meats (thankfully forbidden here), and the sublimely soft, feathery plumes of braised goat arrived in a mound of greens, tossed with gravy into crunchy fennel fronds layered with soft chickpea crepe and panfried caciocavallo cheese.

Two Bells – Very Good

Monsu features the vibrant flavors of Sicily [Philadelphia Inquirer]