Rolling in Dough at Dim Sum Garden

Many have exalted the soup dumplings at Dim Sum Garden but Brian Freedman finds that all the dough based menu items are worthy of praise.

The Garden does a bang-up job with their house-made scallion pancakes, too, nearly the texture of phyllo. And, yes, a recent Chinese-American special, fried cheese wontons, were an unexpected joy to eat. The cream-cheese filling was kissed with the sweet funk of onions, hearty seafood and assorted pureed vegetables, all of it lovingly encased in fried dough.

As with all dough-based dishes here, the hand-drawn noodles were a strand by springy strand tour de force of technique. They served as delicate, subtle second-tier players next to softly perfumed, sliced spiced beef, and as ballast for a tub of soup flared with spicy strands of cabbage, hyper-savory slices of pork, and peppery sprouts.

Dim Sum Garden of Good Eatin’ [Philadelphia Weekly]