The Saloon Still Has It
Trey Popp has a new online only review each month called The Revisit. In the first installment he visits the venerable Saloon.
[T]he homemade fettuccini is as delicate as they make it further south at Le VirtÃ¹, and my heaping portion of it came with a veal shank big enough to hide behind. It practically melted off its center bone, for which a marrow fork had been snuck onto my place setting without ceremony. What a relief to have that luxurious pleasure presented as an unctuous accent rather than as a macho centerpiece, as it would have been at Adsum or Barbuzzo or anywhere else thatâ€™s caught up in the foodie fetish for marrow. Thatâ€™s a sense of propriety and proportion youâ€™ll appreciate on the heels of the not-to-be-missed clams Pavarottiâ€”a purported Saloon invention, albeit from way back, that lards the bivalve with lump crab and shrimp under bÃ©chamel sauce.