Two Bells for Tweed
Craig LaBan has plenty of good things to say about Tweed and chef David Cunningham.
Cunningham nailed a perfect balance of complex flavors. A tart sheep’s milk yogurt, tingly with chile flakes, basil, and mint, was the ideal link for a duet of lamb, a tender shred of shoulder braised with curry, eggplant, and kale, set beneath perfectly pink tiles of seared loin fanned on top. A “T-bone” slice of halibut was so thick, it was meaty enough to handle a rustic garnish of bacon-studded cabbage ringed by garlic butter and Concord grape verjus. A stylish update on homey pot roast, meanwhile, goes deluxe with thick slices of veal, meltingly soft alongside woodsy portobellos and a rich dark froth of herbed Madeira veal stock.
Two Bells – Very Good