From the Magazine: Tweed Reviewed
The namesake fabric upholsters the banquettes, and doubles as an allegory for the restaurant’s farm-to-table culinary concept. Tweed (the cloth) has transcended its rustic origins and is now a symbol of urban sophistication. Tweed (the restaurant) wants to do the same thing for local food: take it out of its rural element and showcase it in a modern space. It’s an admirable concept, but does it translate?
Dipping into a quenching gazpacho on a hot night in July, or parting a tangle of exquisite arugula to cut a lemoned-and-capered bite of veal scallopini as a serene Frank Sinatra lilted over the sound system, I had one delicious answer to that question.
On another night, as I puzzled over a tasteless, fridge-bitten tomato on the way to a dry pork chop dressed with underwhelming pickled ramps, when the relentless pulse of techno music vied for domination with the chatter of a tableful of dead ringers for The Real Housewives of Philadelphia, I had another.