City Tap House Smacked
Zoinks! Craig LaBan crushes City Tap House citing dirty glasses, bland food, clueless service and mice on the green roof.
Where City Tap House really falters into mediocrity, though, is in the key domains of mussels and pizza. I ordered three different bowls of mussels, and whether prepared with leeks and Belgian ale (Abigail-style), or not enough chorizo and tomato (Pancho), or in Pernod garlic cream tinted with tangled wads of saffron (Carmine), the flavors were surprisingly pallid. At worst, the mollusks were overcooked and fishy.
City Tap’s much-touted brick-oven pizzas, meanwhile, left me flat. Paris’ crusts are cracker-crisp, for sure, but had little other character – no puffy lift or inner-softness, not enough salt, and often an unnecessary shine of olive oil and charred semolina clinging to the edges.
One Bell – Hit or Miss