Collingswood’s West Side Gravy
Trey Popp visits West Side Gravy, the straight-ahead Americana inspired restaurant of Blackbird’s Alex Capasso.
Thereâ€™s no postmodern deconstruction here, no lobster-corndog irony. The tattoo-style paintings, like a fried drumstick sprouting angel wings, have fun with the concept, but the kitchen serves this homey fare straight up.
At its best, West Side Gravy makes you wonder why weâ€™ve exiled some of these dishes to -microwave-ready freezer trays. Shepherdâ€™s pie is actually delightful when you use fresh peas and whip the potatoes into a downy, crisp-edged pillow. Meatloaf is voluptuous when drenched in a concentrated veal stock. Dainty sliders â€” pulled pork with long hots, tuna with a wasabi-spiked cucumber slaw â€” conceal big flavors. And one bite of the BLT, a seamless union of pancetta and marinated tomatoes, could ruin a vegetarian.
Two Stars out of Four
West Side Gravy [Philadelphia Magazine]