Trey Popp at El Rey

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Trey Popp files his first review for Philadelphia Magazine, his inaugural target, El Rey. Popp doesn’t find big mistakes but only a couple of items that are worth raving about.

The outstanding stuffed poblano pepper, a carryover from Xochitl[1], rides waves of flavor – a splash of creamy walnut sauce, a spray of almonds, then a dried-fruit-and-cinnamon-scented tide of beef, whose sweetness recedes as tart bursts of pomegranate punctuate the slow burn of the chili. Sucking his mole negro – an alchemy of anchos, mulatos and chilhuacles – off of slow-cooked lamb cubes is like plunging through a column of chili smoke into a cauldron of chocolate-dusted tobacco leaves. It’s as black as sin, as pungent as heartache, as mysterious as redemption.

Two Stars out of Four

El Rey[2] [Philadelphia Magazine]
El Rey[3] [Official Site]

Since another reviewer has taken a look at El Rey we have updated our El Rey: Annoted Menu[4].

Endnotes:
  1. Xochitl: http://www.xochitlphilly.com/
  2. El Rey: https://www.phillymag.com/articles/restaurant_review_el_rey/
  3. El Rey: http://www.elreyrestaurant.com/
  4. El Rey: Annoted Menu: http://foobooz.com/2010/08/el-rey-annotated-menu/

Source URL: https://www.phillymag.com/foobooz/2010/08/31/trey-popp-at-el-rey/