Staying Power & More at Avenida
Craig LaBan has plenty of praise for Mt. Airy’s Avenida, the Latin American restaurant that is making its mark on Germantown Avenue.
[I]t is Edgar’s savory fare that is really the reason to visit. The long arms of grilled octopus had a tenderness that showed the virtues of a slow simmer in Tecate beer and Coca-Cola. I would have preferred if the ribs had been smoked rather than braised, but I loved their earthy red mole sauce so much, I didn’t mind the fall-apart meat texture.
The moles are mild but also subtly complex, and they’re among this kitchen’s best efforts – the closest Avenida gets to genuine Guatemalan home cooking. That red mole, brewed from a trio of peppers, pumpkin seeds, walnuts, and Ibarra chocolate, is especially good when slathered onto chicken Michote and wrapped in a plantain leaf for slow steaming. A green mole is crafted for the tender pulled shreds of the braised pork pibil, the bright acidity of tomatillos balanced by herbaceous cilantro and the richness of milled sesame and pumpkin seeds.
Two Bells – Very Good
Mount Airy’s Avenida thrives despite Delaware Market House’s departure [Philadelphia Inquirer]
Avenida [Official Site]