Good Bones Updated at El Rey
Elisa Ludwig is back in the City Paper this week as she reviews Stephen Starr’s El Rey.
[T]he food here, as designed by Dionicio Jimenez, is very good, holding its own amid the distracting environs. Visitors to Jimenez’s last place of employ, Xochitl, will recognize his signatures, like the chicken tinga tostada on a cracker-like fluted round of tortilla, the shredded meat braised in tomato, layered over black beans and topped with shredded lettuce and queso fresco. There’s his chile en nogada, a large, glossy poblano stuffed with spiced ground beef, translucent slices of almond and jewel-like squares of dried fruit, lavished with a creamy walnut sauce and a smattering of popping pomegranate seeds.