Something for Everyone at Garces Trading Co.
Benjamin Wallace, author of the Billionaire’s Vinegar is filling as reviewer at Philadelphia Magazine this month and he pays Jose Garces and Garces Trading Company a visit.
On the plate, the Iron Chef has an artful way with color and composition. A rosy slab of house-made pÃ¢tÃ©, studded with green pistachios and set alongside a pot of -turmeric-yellow mustard, becomes a small still life on a rectangle of black slate. A hunk of grilled swordfish, set off by a red swoosh of romesco sauce and a green line of grilled scallions, is a study in contrast and geometry.
Both dishes were among the highlights of several recent meals at Garces. The pÃ¢tÃ©â€™s faint heat and gamey flavor were offset by the sweetness of star anise, while the swordfishâ€”juicy, perfectly seasoned, with a blush of pink at the centerâ€”rose to the level of memorable.