Erace Digs Zavino
Adam Erace reviews Zavino, Midtown Village’s new pizza trattoria and he finds some Philadelphia’s best pizza plus some other surprises like house-made headcheese ravioli. But it’s the pizza you’ll come for.
My pies sported leopard-spotted bottoms and sooty edges that gave way to Claudioâ€™s provolone dotted with ricotta-leavened veal meatballs (the Polpettini); earthy local mushrooms sunk into bÃ©chamel (the Kennett); and every so often, a delicate blistered air bubble. Gonzalezâ€™s favorite pieâ€”and mineâ€”is also Zavinoâ€™s simplest: the Rosa, a layer of crushed tomatoes embellished with nothing more than grated Parmiggiano, fruity extra-virgin and fresh oregano. In Italian, â€œrosaâ€ means â€œpink,â€ and it tickled me that way.