2 1/2 Bells for Square 1682


square1682

Well it reads like a 2 1/2 bell review but Craig LaBan only does integers so Square 1682 gets a very nice 2-bell review.

If there is one unifying thread through Tellez’s palate, it is his vivid use of spice for flavor more than heat. Chiles and avocado bits jazz a yogurt raita sauce that accompanies a gorgeous shrimp cocktail poached with kaffir lime curry. Rusty, rich guajillo sauce and pineapple salsa give a tropical “al pastor” flair to the lobster tacos (a more satisfying successor to those quesadillas). An Asian chile paste lends earthy heat to a barbecue sauce that slicks the tender lamb short ribs on the bar menu. A slow-roasted shred of pork carnitas, meanwhile, adds a savory Mexican accent to the seared black cod over creamy polenta.

Two Bells – Very Good

Square 1682 [Philadelphia Inquirer]
Square 1682 [Official Site]