Revolutionary Pizza At Stella
David Snyder finds the pizzas of Pizzeria Stella to be revolutionary and delicious.
All that fussing pays off. Stella’s pies â€” fiercely artisanal, yet light on the wallet â€” may well redefine the way Philadelphia eats pizza.
What I love about the dozen pizzas on offer here is that they’re far from flashy. The bitter broccoli rabe and gently smoky pancetta topping the vongole (inspired by Frank Pepe’s in New Haven) makes for simple equilibrium with fresh clams. Crushed pistachios, thin-sliced red onion and a trio of mozzarella, fontina and shaved Parmesan team up to provide unexpected bliss on another pizza. Roasted fennel provides a wonderful counterpoint to delicate Lingurian olives on the finocchio. Peppery arugula and salty slivers of prosciutto partner perfectly on the San Daniele. Curled-up coins of Abbruzze salami and San Marzano tomato sauce are reminders of what a pepperoni pizza is really supposed to taste like.