Fish Provides Bigger Stage
The difference between Mike Stollenwerk’s Little Fish and Fish can be summed up by chicken skin, yes chicken skin.
It comes in confetti-size crisps atop a salad of roasted beets, adding another layer of fatty crunch to a sprinkling of pistachios. Sculptural tufts of lamb’s lettuce placed atop the beets were so exquisitely unblemished that a snapshot would have looked Photoshopped. The idea came from a plate of leftover beet pierogies Stollenwerk brought home from Little Fish one night and cooked up with roasted chicken breast. “I wanted to do it there,” he told me over the phone, “but there literally wasn’t enough space for chicken skin.”