Revamped Meritage Praised

The revamped Meritage gets a thumbs-up from Trey Popp in City Paper as the formerly formal restaurant has gotten a redo and the menu has been made over by Susanna Foo alum, Anne Coll.

[T]here’s a comfort-food aspect to Coll’s cooking, too. Half-moon dumplings with crisp-crackle shells carried a soft and soothing cargo of foie gras. A warming sweet-potato purée flanked one entrée; giant medallions of crisp-fried potato slices added a simple pleasure to another. My tea-smoked pork tenderloin was a little overcooked, but it had a dusky, moody flavor that I can still feel on my breath. And that lean tenderloin cut — which I’d never order on its own — was just right as a foil for the fatty brick of pork belly on the other side of the plate. The full-flavored hanger steak, rose-hued in the middle with a perfect seared-salt crust, is the best I’ve had in ages.

Vine Ripened [City Paper]
Meritage [Official Site]