Revamped Meritage Praised
The revamped Meritage gets a thumbs-up from Trey Popp in City Paper as the formerly formal restaurant has gotten a redo and the menu has been made over by Susanna Foo alum, Anne Coll.
[T]here’s a comfort-food aspect to Coll’s cooking, too. Half-moon dumplings with crisp-crackle shells carried a soft and soothing cargo of foie gras. A warming sweet-potato purÃ©e flanked one entrÃ©e; giant medallions of crisp-fried potato slices added a simple pleasure to another. My tea-smoked pork tenderloin was a little overcooked, but it had a dusky, moody flavor that I can still feel on my breath. And that lean tenderloin cut â€” which I’d never order on its own â€” was just right as a foil for the fatty brick of pork belly on the other side of the plate. The full-flavored hanger steak, rose-hued in the middle with a perfect seared-salt crust, is the best I’ve had in ages.