Fond of Fond
Despite some youthful mistakes from Lee Styer and Jessie Prawlucki, Craig LaBan finds plenty to recommend at East Passyunk’s Fond.
And the talent here is certainly emerging. One need only taste the tuna crudo to see what Styer is capable of, as he lends the dish a Mediterranean spin that is multifaceted and original. A dusting of lemony sumac adds a pleasant textural grip to the smooth raw fish. Fronds of dill bring an unexpected anise warmth. And the garnish of homemade Greek yogurt swirled with pomegranate juice brings both richness and ripe pucker that somehow connects with the fruity sweetness of the deep-purple fish. By contrast, his seared scallop dish is an exercise in restraint, with a creamy puree of celery root, crunchy sliced celery, and vinegar-plumped golden raisins adding subtle sparks to frame the soft-spoken flavor of the pristine scallops.
Two Bells – Very Good