Fond Classes Up The Avenue


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In presumably the first case were Adam Erace excused himself from reviewing a restaurant because of a potential conflict with his forthcoming Green Aisle Grocery, we find Dan Packel visiting East Passyunk’s Fond. It’s a shame for Erace as Fond delivered again.

Entrees were just as impressive. In a technique borrowed from Perrier at Le Bec Fin, [Lee] Styer cooks his chicken breast in the oven on the bone, with the whole carcass. After the breast cooks through 80 percent of the way, he debones it then tosses it in a pan with butter to crisp up the skin. This execution, applied to an air-cooled bird from Canada’s Geanone Farm, ensured a tender breast and a soundly brittle exterior. The piperade of green pepper and onion added the welcome snap, both in texture and in flavor, that was becoming a pleasant routine.

Fond [Philadelphia Weekly]