Popp On Avril
Trey Popp ventures out to Bala Cynwyd to try out Avril, a French restaurant that he feels lacks some focus.
When not hampered by lapses in execution, though, Gatti’s cooking is full of fresh ideas. His curried carrot mousse, whose cloudlike consistency found playful counterpoint in a crust of walnuts and whole-grain farro, was a show-stealing revelation next to a simple grilled rack of lamb. The deep meatiness of his very tender wine-braised brisket got a welcome lift from more of that cherry sauce.