Singing About Sonata
David Snyder sings about the cooking of Sonata chef and owner Mark Tropea even if there are a few uneven notes.
Tropea demonstrates an ability to orchestrate simple ingredients into sophisticated, satisfying compositions.
The practice that demonstrates this the most is Tropea’s ability to combine earth and sea, his most adventurous combo being the lobster “mac and cheese.” Purists might dismiss marrying cheese with a lobster tail, yet a whisper of mild fontina is a harmonious partner for the crustacean, giving the dish an elegance bolstered by house-made pappardelle. It’s the addition of chanterelle mushrooms, though, that makes it a masterpiece. The match seems counter-intuitive, but the lobster stock-infused cream sauce connects these ingredients into one seamless arc.