Best French Bistro

For the haters of self promotion out there, here’s a restaurant review sure to warm your heart. David Snyder goes to Bibou which opened without much fanfare except for from some hardcore foodies in May and crowns it “the best French bistro in a city teeming with them.”

These upscale versions of French country fare far exceed the typical expectations and limitations of a bistro. After just one bite, the classical methods the chef perfected at several Michelin-rated restaurants in France, New York City’s Daniel and Philly’s Le Bec-Fin (where he was executive chef) are apparent.

Nowhere are these skills more vivid than in the chef’s sauces. It’s difficult to upstage perfect, double-seared hanger steak, but the depth that green peppercorn, red currant gelée and a touch of cream brought to the dish’s red wine bordelaise sauce (a Georges Perrier recipe Pierre tweaked) had me asking for more house-made bread to mop one of my companions’ plates. Grenadine syrup added structure to the rhubarb and Meyer lemon-zest sauce accompanying crisp-skinned sea bass. The whisper of clove in the Black Diamond plum chutney was a creative bridge to house-made pumpkin bread served with seared foie gras. Fresh sage from the Calmels’ personal garden made the jus in veal medallions sing.

Eiffel Power [City Paper]
Bibou [Official Site]