New Chef But Fork Still A Staple
Adam Erace checks out the menu of new Chef Terence Feury, who has taken the helm at Old City’s Fork.
The down-to-earth, uncomplicated style extends to Feuryâ€™s menu, printed daily, with dishes like grilled chicken livers cinched with bacon. The offal were crisp outside, creamy inside and served along an elegant sherry-splashed arugula salad. The night I dined, the excellent bacon hailed from Green Meadow Farm. Now Feury is curing and smoking his own.
But dudeâ€™s equally adept at seafood. I loved his North Carolina bay scallops, like sweet sea candies softly sauteed and tossed with fragrant tarragon butter, pine nuts, sharp pickled cherry peppers and elastic, al dente, house-made angel hair.
Pan-roasted New England cod was gorgeously rendered with a crunchy, caramel-colored crust from little more than salt, pepper and a well-seasoned cast-iron skillet. Underneath, flake flake flake, each bite of fish falling off into a white wine broth enlivened with pretty little New Zealand cockles, blood orange and basil.